The secret here is to NOT cut out a particular size; instead, just trace off the size you need. Again, thank you for doing this. This second line is where you'll CUT your fabric, and accounts for the seam and hem allowances you will need.
I stitched the each front to a back like in the instructions. One more question I have is after I did that and then opened up them up and put them together as in Step 3, the front of the shorts had one front piece and one back piece and the back of the shirts were the same. Is it supposed to be like that? I have been a seamstress for 45 years and love the tutorial.
I am teaching adults sewing techniques this next weekend. I enjoyed your tutorial and would like to use it for the class. I did notice something that made me scratch my head. I think that might make for a pretty loose fitting. This gives some snugness to the pants but not so snug it is uncomfortable. The tie assures the pants will not slip down. What do you think? I know this is especially true for young children without any hips to hold the pants up if the elastic becomes looser from frequent washings.
Looking forward to your comments. I do it this way in order for the pj bottoms to be loose fitting. Because there is an actual drawstring, the waist is able to be adjusted. I know they could be more snug, but we love them where they barely hang on! How do you add a button up crotch to this pattern?
Great instructions, thanks for your excellent post. Hi I am a new sewer and I am trying to make the pajama same pattern for my 20 yrs daughter but the problem is even the S size is very large for her how can I reduce the widht of pajama overall. Will be very grateful if you tell me how to reduce the width. Thank you for excellent post. I suggest you look for a pattern designed specifically for a woman.
The smaller size should fit on top of the first pair of pants and then you can cut down to the correct size. Thank you so much for this. Thanks for this tutorial, I struggled with my first pair until I found your directions, then I made 4 more pairs for my sons and their friends!!
And make them super fast now!! My sons friend came over and decided to spend the night, and had nothing comfortable to wear, I said, I can take care of that, whipped up some pajama pants in no time!! Will rush home and finish them tonight! Your directions are very clear but I have one question. I want to put on the tie and followed you up to making the buttonholes and adding the elastic.
The step I am confused on is do you sew the ties down or just thread them through the two button holes? Will they actually allow the person to draw the pants up? Again, thank you for doing this. I am going to check out your directions on making a button hole since it has been a few years and a new machine! After unpacking items from a recent move, i noticed the packing paper was still in fairly decent shape.
I ironed the paper and used it to trace the pj pattern; strong enough to with stand many uses ; if i can just manage to quit shaving off the edges with each use. COuld you please help me? Step 2—back and front together, right sides facing. By the way, I love your site! The twill tape is not attached. Is is a drawstring that is threaded in one end and out the other. I always find it difficult to understand the pattern instruction. Therefore has hindered me in my sewing and i end up frustrated.
The tie allows you to make the elastic loose. Having the tie allows you to cinch it to your level of comfort. Thank you for the great read. Do you know if this Simplicity pattern can be used to make pajama shorts? I have made many shorts, pants, and pajamas, I am glad you simplified the language of the pattern. I wish you could help me get a perfect fit pair of shorts for my 3yr old grand daughter who really is a 2t. Do you have any experience with textile digital printing?
I used the recommended fabric on the pattern. Nope — but spoonflower. Flannel is great for cold climates, but quilting weight cotton works, too. If you live in a warm climate, voile would be great. Will this pattern allow for it? If so how can I make sure I do this part right? Easy for the wearer to find the back. I stitch the elastic closed and make 4 equal marks and pin to the inside of the pants top.
Then beginning at the back I zig zag the elastic along the edge, stretching it to fit the gap until the next pin, continuing from pin to pin to the beginning. Then I fold pants top and elastic down tightly and zigzag over the previous zigzags enclosing the elastic.
Repin at each seam and remember to stretch as you go with a hand behind and in front of the presser foot. Hi Leslie, so I made pajama pants for my toddler. However after the first night of wearing them the fabric started to fall apart beside the seams.
Do you know what I did wrong? All the seams were overlocked nicely. I have no idea why this would happen. You may want to rethread your serger. Possibly the threads never knitted together. Your email address will not be published.
Now check your email to confirm your subscription. There was an error submitting your subscription. I am a beginner sewer. Question regarding making the drawstring casing Otherwise, the wrong side of the fabric will show as the casing? Just run to Wal-mart Buy a pair of PJ pants turn inside out, Trace out on newspaper, then return item back to store.
Sorry - this one is all about starting with a old pair to make a new pair. Without the old pair to start with, your best bet is to find a commercial pattern for PJ pants.
I've been sewing about 30 years or so. My addition would be this: I always thought this was quicker. And secondly, I use grosgrain ribbon for the tie, stitching it in the center back after putting it in, so it doesn't slip out.
I love being able to make everyone in the family jammie pants!! Thanks for the pattern, I'm going to make matching color Christmas patterns for the kids and grandkids and wrap for them to open on Dec. I still give my 35 year old daughter her Christmas PJs on the morning of St. I have a woven straw shoe I use each year.
My Mom always gave us a present to open Christmas Eve and it was our pajamas so we would have them on for pictures in the morning. I just finished making these PJ pants. They came out great! That is a great idea. I have too many sheets and now I will use them to practice sewing. I have only made 2 Aprons. Skip to main content. Marseille Slim Stripe pant with Marseille Jacques accent cut as a slightly different point in the stripe than Mom's accent in the same fabric Son's Pants: Marseille Gaston pant with Marseille Petit Point accent All purpose thread in colors to match fabrics Wrapping paper, old newspaper, or other large paper for pattern Safety pin A pair of old pajama pants that fit comfortably See-through ruler Long ruler or yardstick Fabric pencil Iron and ironing board Scissors or rotary cutter and mat Straight pins Getting Started We used Dad's pants as our sample for these instructions.
The main pant pattern Locate a pair of pajama pants that fit you or the intended recipient of the new jammie pants. A loose-fitting, comfy pair is best. Fold the pants in half, so the crotch seam is fully extended and the pants are as flat as possible.
Unroll a length of wrapping paper, butcher paper or other large paper on the floor. You need a piece bigger than your folded pants. Place the pants on the paper and trace around the entire perimeter. Adapting the traced pattern to create the final cut line and cuff pattern After the pattern is traced around the original jammie pants, you need to determine the depth of the cuff.
There are a couple different methods to determine this depth. You can look at the overall length and, with your tape measurer, decide the measurement that looks proportionate. Or, like us, because we used a striped fabric, you can choose a dominant repeat to determine the depth.
Draw a line parallel to the bottom of the pant leg, at the same depth as the finished cuff. Cut off the pant pattern along this new line.
Now you need to make the pattern for the cuff. Our cuffs are doubled and sewn to the bottom of the pants for a nice, neat folded edge along the bottom. Place a new piece of paper over your existing pattern and trace the bottom of the pant. You only need to trace a section just a bit larger than your finished cuff depth.
The dashed line will be the folded bottom of the cuff. Remove the new paper from the existing pattern. Draw a new line parallel to the dashed line, at the same depth as the finished cuff. Depending on your original jammie pant shape, the sides of the leg may taper in a little. In that case, erase your original traced side lines and connect the two parallel lines with straight lines to the fold line and continuing for the second half of the cuff.
This will make the bottom of the pant a nice, straight cut. Cut out the rectangle you've just drawn. Place this rectangle on a new piece of blank paper, trace it, then flip it over and trace the opposite side. The middle of this new, double-in-size rectangle should still be indicated with a dashed line. Again, this dashed line is the bottom of the cuff and will be helpful for placement when fussy cutting the fabric. We suggest writing on your pattern where you will 'cut on the fold,' and which sides are the outside of the pant leg, the top and the bottom.
This may not be important if you are using a solid fabric or a very randomly patterned fabric, but it was especially important to us because we wanted our stripe on the top portion of the cut to be fussy cut at a very particular point on our striped fabric. Cut out the final cuff pattern piece. Remember your original pant leg pattern.
This second line is where you'll CUT your fabric, and accounts for the seam and hem allowances you will need. You do NOT create a second line along the long straight edge of the pants; that is the fold. Cut out your fabric pieces with your final patterns Fold your main pant fabric in half lengthwise. You'll have a long, narrow folded piece from which you'll cut your two pant leg pieces. Place the straight side of the pant leg pattern along the fold of the fabric and pin in place. Cut around the pattern piece.
Slide your pattern piece down the folded fabric and place the long straight edge along the fold of the fabric again and pin in place. Cut out a second leg around the pattern piece. Follow these same steps to cut two cuffs from the accent fabric, fussy cutting as needed for your fabric. Pin the cuff to the right side of the bottom pant leg. Be sure you have the top side of the cuff right side together with pant leg.
Then, when it flips down upon completion of the seam, the right side will be facing out. Finish the raw edges with a serger, overcast stitch on your sewing machine, or a pinking shears. Press the seam open. Repeat to attach the remaining cuff to the remaining pant leg. Create the pants Each pattern piece corresponds to one leg of the jammie pants.
In the next steps, you will sew each leg closed, then sew the two legs together. Because jammie pants are laundered often, we recommend finished the raw edges of the seam allowances.
If you are new to this we have some finishing recommendations in an earlier tutorial. First, sew the leg sections closed.
Fold one pant leg piece in half fold is along the long straight edge right sides together. Starting at the bottom, or cuff of the pants, pin along the inside, curved edge, ending at the outermost section of the crotch. Repeat with the second leg. Sew short ends of the waistband together to form a loop. Line this seam up with the center back seam, and pin your waistband around the top of your pants.
Iron the other edge of the waistband under slightly, then pin it so it barely covers the seam joining the waistband to the pants.
Stitch right next to the waistband to secure it in place, leaving an opening to insert elastic. Now, you could hem your pajamas and be done, but if you want some variations, keep reading. If you are adding cuffs to your pants, now is the time to measure and sew. These get made and sewn on the same way as the waistband, without the elastic. You might want to add piping into the cuff seam , or as I did on this pair, a little bit of double fold bias tape peeking out. To add it, I basted the bias tape with the open end on my seam allowance so towards the bottom edge of the pants and then sewed on the cuff piece.
I pressed it flat before sewing the legs closed. What if you want a drawstring waistband instead of elastic? First of all, if you want a drawstring, you will probably need to make the waistband narrower, and increase the length of the top of the pants by the same amount that you took away from the waistband. Sew the waistband in the same way you would for an elastic waistband and then thread your drawstring through the buttonholes you made. I also find drawstrings more comfortable when I cut the drawstring in half and sew a couple inches of thin elastic to the cut ends — this gives the drawstring a little bit of give and makes it more comfortable in my opinion.
Love your fabric choices! Great tutorial and fun pics! I enjoyed your idea of using the bias tape and adding another fabric.
Open the bias tape, and pin the bias tape center (2 3/4 wide side) to the pant center seam (the crotch seam) so that the buttonholes are on either side of the center seam of the pants. This comfortable pair of drawstring pants from Martha Stewart's Encyclopedia of Sewing and Fabric Crafts is one of the simplest pieces of clothing you can sew. Print pattern template, tape pieces together with clear tape, and cut out. Wash, dry, and press the fabric. Cut out the pattern, following. I’m making pajama pants out of a fun cotton print using an existing pair as a pattern, and I’ll be adding an optional drawstring. These pajama pants make great gifts, especially for that holiday family photo with the matching pairs.